We rolled into Memphis Saturday mid-day, greeted not by blues and barbecue, but a clash of Memphis Tiger Blue and Tennessee Volunteer Orange. Memphis sat undefeated at #1 and Tennessee was set to knock them off (which they did that night. Then Vanderbilt humbled Tennessee two days later. Tennessee is the place for hoops these days). 
We elbowed our way through the trash talk to the Rendevous Room -- it was to be a pilgrimage for Jason. It was packed. They rushed us through dinner, quite opposite of the slow-cook process of our meal. Tiny entrees included half-dollar-size beans and slaw. But "a nice dry rub," Jason concluded.
Beale Street's blues beats were silenced for basketball watch parties of the game playing just a block away in the Fed Ex Forum. We prepared for the next leg of the trip.
The next day we were off to New Orleans, to bear witness, to volunteer and to absorb the southern city's unexpected cultural twists.
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